Azelaic Acid vs. Vitamin C: Which One is Better for Skin?

Rashi | 24 Mar 2025

When it comes to brightening skin and tackling pigmentation, Azelaic Acid and Vitamin C are two superstar ingredients—but they take different approaches! Azelaic acid is a gentle multitasker with anti-inflammatory and brightening benefits, making it perfect for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Vitamin C, on the other hand, is a powerhouse antioxidant that not only brightens but also shields your skin from environmental damage.

So, which one should you choose? Let’s break it down—and find out if you can use them together for even better results!

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like barley and wheat. It’s often used to treat mild to moderate acne, redness, and hyperpigmentation.

Key Benefits of Azelaic Acid:

Fades Pigmentation: Reduces post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma.
Treats Acne: Targets acne-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation.
Brightens Skin: Evens out skin tone for a more radiant complexion.
Soothes Redness: Calms irritation, making it ideal for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.
Gentle Exfoliation: Smooths skin texture without causing sensitivity.

What is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that protects skin from free radical damage caused by UV rays, pollution, and other environmental factors. It’s also known for its brightening and collagen-boosting properties.

Key Benefits of Vitamin C:

Brightens Skin Tone: Reduces dark spots and enhances radiance.
Protects Against Free Radicals: Neutralizes oxidative stress and boosts sun protection.
Stimulates Collagen Production: Improves skin elasticity and reduces wrinkles.
Fades Pigmentation: Targets melasma, sunspots, and post-acne marks.
Enhances Glow: Leaves skin looking refreshed and radiant.

How They Compare

Feature	Azelaic Acid	Vitamin C
Primary Function	Treats acne, redness, and pigmentation.	Brightens skin and provides antioxidant protection.
Skin Type	Suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive and rosacea-prone.	Suitable for all skin types, especially dull or pigmented skin.
Brightening	Gradual improvement over time.	Significant brightening and radiance boost.
Anti-Ageing Benefits	Minimal; focuses on soothing and brightening.	Stimulates collagen and reduces fine lines.
Acne Treatment	Effective for mild to moderate acne.	Minimal; reduces redness but does not treat acne.
Hyperpigmentation	Fades dark spots and evens skin tone.	Reduces pigmentation and prevents new discolouration.
Irritation Potential	Low; very gentle on skin.	Low to moderate; may irritate sensitive skin at high concentrations.
Frequency of Use	Safe for daily use, morning and night.	Safe for daily use, typically in the morning.

Which is Better for Your Skin?

The choice between azelaic acid and vitamin C depends on your skin concerns and goals:

Choose Azelaic Acid If:

You have sensitive or rosacea-prone skin and need a gentle product.
Your primary concern is redness, hyperpigmentation, or mild acne.
You're looking for a multitasking ingredient that brightens, soothes, and treats acne.
You want a solution that’s safe for daily use and easy to incorporate into your routine.

Choose Vitamin C If:

Your primary concern is dullness, pigmentation, or uneven tone.
You want to protect your skin from environmental damage like UV rays and pollution.
You're looking to boost collagen production and reduce fine lines.
You're aiming to achieve a brighter, more radiant complexion.

Can You Use Azelaic Acid and Vitamin C Together?

Yes, azelaic acid and vitamin C can be used together, and they complement each other well:

Azelaic Acid Soothes: Reduces redness and calms inflammation, which can help offset any irritation caused by vitamin C.
Vitamin C Protects: Provides antioxidant protection and enhances overall radiance.

How to Use Them Together:

Layering: Apply vitamin C first (as it’s water-soluble) and then follow with azelaic acid (as it’s oil-soluble).
Alternate Days: Use vitamin C in the morning for protection and azelaic acid at night to treat redness and pigmentation.
Moisturize and Protect: Follow with a moisturizer and sunscreen to lock in hydration and shield skin from UV damage.

Who Should Use Both?

Hyperpigmentation and Redness: Vitamin C brightens and protects, while azelaic acid reduces redness and pigmentation.
Ageing Skin with Sensitivity: Vitamin C boosts collagen and radiance, while azelaic acid soothes irritation.
Combination Skin: Use vitamin C for brightening and azelaic acid for calming inflammation and treating blemishes.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Using Incompatible Products:
Ensure the pH levels of your products are compatible when layering vitamin C with other actives.
Skipping Sunscreen:
Both ingredients can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so SPF is essential.
Neglecting Hydration:
Always follow with a moisturizer to maintain a healthy skin barrier.

Science Backing

Azelaic Acid: Studies in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology confirm azelaic acid’s ability to treat hyperpigmentation, acne, and redness.
Vitamin C: Research in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology highlights vitamin C’s antioxidant properties and its effectiveness in brightening and protecting the skin.
Combination Use: Dermatologists often recommend pairing vitamin C in the morning with azelaic acid at night for a comprehensive skincare approach, as noted in the Journal of Dermatological Science.

Conclusion

Both azelaic acid and vitamin C are exceptional skincare ingredients but address different concerns. Choose azelaic acid for calming redness, treating acne, and soothing sensitive skin. Opt for vitamin C if your primary goals are brightening, protecting against environmental damage, and boosting collagen.